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The Food of Morocco has arrived!!!

We have all been anticipating the arrival of Paula’s new book, The Food of Morocco. When it arrived, I thumbed through the 500+ pages over a course of a few days. The photographs are stunning and the recipes, oh the recipes! I chose the Butternut Squash and Tomato Soup as my first creation. She described it as a soup “to keep both body and soul warm.”  It was the most incredible squash soup I have ever tasted in my entire life. I found myself licking the spatula like it was cake batter. I was able to make use of my beautiful butternut squash from Loon organics.

1 yellow onion coarsely chopped
Coarse salt
1 1/2 T EVOO
2 pounds butternut, kabocha, or kalabaza squash, halved, peeled, seeded, and cut into 1 1/2″ chunks (about 6 cups)
2 T tomato paste
1 t La Kama
1/2 cup heavy cream
1/4 pound crumbled or shredded goat cheese
1 t harissa (I used sriracha)
Salt and freshly ground pepper

[Read more...]

Vinegar-Poached Sturgeon with Thyme-Butter Sauce

Vinegar-Poached Sturgeon with Thyme-Butter Sauce

By Paul Wolfert

ACTIVE TIME: 35 MIN

TOTAL TIME: 2 HRS

SERVES: 4

This is a Paula dish we recommend trying with your homemade vinegar. Send us your pictures of this dish, and maybe we will feature them here on our blog!

INGREDIENTS

4 medium zucchini (1 1/2 pounds), sliced crosswise 1/2 inch thick

Salt

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

1 teaspoon chopped thyme

Freshly ground pepper

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Four 6-ounce skinless farmed sturgeon or wild Pacific halibut fillets

3 tablespoons homemade red wine vinegar

3/4 cup water

Bouquet garni made with 2 parsley sprigs, 1 bay leaf and the leafy top of 1 celery rib, tied with kitchen string

1 medium shallot, thinly sliced

3 tablespoons capers, drained and rinsed

 

DIRECTIONS

1. Preheat the oven to 375°. On a large rimmed baking sheet, sprinkle the zucchini slices with salt. Arrange them in an even layer and let stand for 1 hour. In a small bowl, blend the butter with the thyme and season with salt and pepper.

2. Rinse the zucchini slices and pat dry; wipe off the baking sheet. Return the zucchini to the baking sheet and toss with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Spread the slices in an even layer and bake until golden brown on the bottom, about 30 minutes. Transfer the zucchini to a platter.

3. Sprinkle the sturgeon with 1 tablespoon of the vinegar and refrigerate for 10 minutes. In a large, heavy skillet, combine the remaining 2 tablespoons of vinegar with the water, bouquet garni and shallot and bring to a boil. Season the poaching liquid lightly with salt and pepper and add the sturgeon fillets. Cover tightly and simmer over low heat, turning once, until the fish is barely cooked through, about 8 minutes. Transfer the sturgeon to a large plate. Strain the poaching liquid into a bowl.

4. Wipe out the skillet and set it over high heat. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil and heat until shimmering. Add the sturgeon fillets, boned side down, and cook until golden brown on the bottom, about 2 minutes. Turn and cook for 1 minute longer. Set the sturgeon on the zucchini and cover with foil to keep warm.

5. Add the strained poaching liquid to the skillet and boil over high heat until reduced to 1/3 cup, about 5 minutes. Stir in the capers and remove from the heat. Swirl in the thyme butter and season the sauce with salt and pepper. Transfer the sturgeon and zucchini to plates, spoon the sauce on top and serve.

From Food & Wine Magazine October 2006 www.foodandwine.com

 

Corn Couscous with Lamb & Vegetables

Corn Couscous with Lamb1Paula Wolfert kindly posted this recipe which is from her new book “The Moroccan Cookbook” to be published by HarperCollins Publishers in 2011.  Experience has taught us that, while ingredients can be substituted in Paula’s recipes, if you follow her exactly, you’ll be experiencing the real thing.  Argan Oil is available online-get the culinary version.  It is a flavoring oil.  A Clay Coyote Large Tagine works well for this dish or a large 6-1/2 Qt. Le Crueset or round oval dutch oven.  We cooked it in the Le Crueset and served it in the tagine.  We were totally amazed to find the Bob’s Red Mill Corn Polenta right there in the Flour and stuff department at our local CashWise in Hutchinson.  Otherwise it’s easily available at organic foods stores.

Corn Couscous with Lamb and Vegetables

Copyright 2010 by Paula Wolfert

Couscous made with corn grits rather than semolina is known as baddaz in south western Morocco, and it is becoming very popular all over the country. This particular recipe is from the Souss valley and it is interesting because it uses mint along with cilantro rather than the more conventional popular combination of cilantro and parsley. Here the mint has an aromatically remarkable influence on the meat  and the flavor of the corn.

The corn grits are not washed before the first steaming. You will need three to four times more broth to moisten this couscous and it will take twice as long to cook. On the other hand, it is absolutely wonderful. Moroccans say you can’t stop eating it!

Serves 8

1 pound fresh lamb shoulder, bone in, cut into 4 large chunks

Marinade: 2  peeled garlic cloves,
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
1 teaspoon cumin seed
1 teaspoon dried Egyptian Mint or spearmint
1 pinch of hot red pepper
1/2 teaspoon coarse salt.

½ cup chick peas or ½ 20 ounce can cooked chick peas
1 medium red onion, grated, (1 cup)
Argan or Extra virgin olive oil
2 teaspoons ground ginger
1 teaspoon sweet paprika
Pinch of cayenne
3 tablespoons saffron water, or pinch of dried saffron soaked in 3 tablespoons water
Pinch of ground turmeric
1 teaspoon Herbes de Provence
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 cup peeled, seeded and diced fresh or
canned tomatoes
1 preserved lemon, pulp removed,
rinsed and drained
2 cloves
1 dozen sprigs of cilantro
1 dozen sprigs of fresh mint
1 ½ pounds corn grits**
1 pound carrots
1 pound purple topped turnips or
rutabagas
1 pound small zucchini
1 butternut squash or pumpkin
2 sweet red peppers, cored, seeded, & quartered
1 dried hot pepper, cored, seeded, soaked
in water but left whole (Mexican guajillo)
1 tablespoon butter or smen, optional
Fresh mint leaves for garnish

1    One day in advance, marinate the meat in a crushed mixture of garlic, spices and salt. Soak the chickpeas overnight in plenty of water to cover.

2.  The following day, drain the fresh chick peas, cover with fresh, cold water, and cook, covered, l hour. Drain, cool, and remove the skins by submerging the chick peas in a bowl of cold water and gently rubbing them between the fingers. The skins will rise to the top of the water. Discard the skins and set the peeled chick peas aside for step 5. (If using canned chick peas, peel them and set them aside for step 5.)

3.   Bring the spiced meat to room temperature. Meanwhile, place the onion, 2 tablespoons oil, ginger, paprika, saffron Corn Couscous with Lamb3water, turmeric and dried herbs in a 5 quart casserole set over medium heat. Cook, stirring from time to time, until the onion dissolves into a puree, about 10 minutes.

4. Add the meat and slowly brown on all sides. Meanwhile, stud the lemon with cloves and stuff with the fresh herbs; tie up with a piece of string. Add to the casserole with the tomato, and 8 cups water and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer, cover  and cook for 1 hour.

Corn Couscous with Lamb45.   Add the peeled chick peas to the pot, and cook  for 1 more hour, or until the meat is butter tender and the bones are easily removed and discarded.

6.   Meanwhile fasten a Clay Coyote stoneware colander or a metal couscous top over a tall pot of water and bring the water to the boil. Before boiling, place a rolled up strip of foil around the top of the pot to secure and seal the colander.

7.   In a wide bowl, toss the grits with 3 tablespoons argan oil and then work in 3/4 cup cold water. Ten minutes later Corn Couscous with Lamb2moisten with another 3/4 cup water.

8.  Add the corn grits to the colander, cover, and cook for 45 minutes. Meanwhile, prepare the vegetables: pare the carrots and turnips or rutabagas and cut them into 1-1/2 inch lengths.  Trim the zucchini ends, halve and cut into 1 ½ inch lengths. Peel and cut up the pumpkin.

9. Turn steamed cornmeal into a wide shallow  bowl; gradually moisten with 3 cups cold water. Use a long pronged whisk to break up clumps. Return to the colander and steam for another 45 minutes.  At the same time, add the turnips and carrots to the casserole and cook, uncovered, for 20 minutes. Add the pumpkin. zucchini and peppers, and continue cooking until all the vegetables are soft, about 25 minutes.  Correct the seasoning with salt and pepper to taste. Remove the casserole from the heat; pick out and discard the preserved lemon bundle.

Corn Couscous with Lamb610. Dump the couscous into the serving dish and moisten  with 2 cups of the broth and a little butter or smen, if using. Use a long wire whisk to smooth out the lumps. Spread out then form a huge well in the center. With a perforated spoon, transfer the meat and vegetables into the well. Top with sprigs of fresh mint. Serve the remaining broth on the side.

** Bob’s red mill  organic polenta corn grits

Variation: Although this version uses fresh marinated lamb, the original recipe is made with confit of lamb called khlii or 1 ½ cups fast track khlii.  Recipes for these will be in Paula’s new book.

Corn Couscous with Lamb & Vegetables

Corn Couscous with Lamb1Paula Wolfert kindly posted this recipe which is from her new book “The Moroccan Cookbook” to be published by HarperCollins Publishers in 2011.  Experience has taught us that, while ingredients can be substituted in Paula’s recipes, if you follow her exactly, you’ll be experiencing the real thing.  Argan Oil is available online-get the culinary version.  It is a flavoring oil.  A Clay Coyote Large Tagine works well for this dish or a large 6-1/2 Qt. Le Crueset or round oval dutch oven.  We cooked it in the Le Crueset and served it in the tagine.  We were totally amazed to find the Bob’s Red Mill Corn Polenta right there in the Flour and stuff department at our local CashWise in Hutchinson.  Otherwise it’s easily available at organic foods stores.

Corn Couscous with Lamb and Vegetables

Copyright 2010 by Paula Wolfert

Couscous made with corn grits rather than semolina is known as baddaz in south western Morocco, and it is becoming very popular all over the country. This particular recipe is from the Souss valley and it is interesting because it uses mint along with cilantro rather than the more conventional popular combination of cilantro and parsley. Here the mint has an aromatically remarkable influence on the meat  and the flavor of the corn.

The corn grits are not washed before the first steaming. You will need three to four times more broth to moisten this couscous and it will take twice as long to cook. On the other hand, it is absolutely wonderful. Moroccans say you can’t stop eating it!

Serves 8

1 pound fresh lamb shoulder, bone in, cut into 4 large chunks

Marinade: 2  peeled garlic cloves,
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
1 teaspoon cumin seed
1 teaspoon dried Egyptian Mint or spearmint
1 pinch of hot red pepper
1/2 teaspoon coarse salt.

½ cup chick peas or ½ 20 ounce can cooked chick peas
1 medium red onion, grated, (1 cup)
Argan or Extra virgin olive oil
2 teaspoons ground ginger
1 teaspoon sweet paprika
Pinch of cayenne
3 tablespoons saffron water, or pinch of dried saffron soaked in 3 tablespoons water
Pinch of ground turmeric
1 teaspoon Herbes de Provence
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 cup peeled, seeded and diced fresh or
canned tomatoes
1 preserved lemon, pulp removed,
rinsed and drained
2 cloves
1 dozen sprigs of cilantro
1 dozen sprigs of fresh mint
1 ½ pounds corn grits**
1 pound carrots
1 pound purple topped turnips or
rutabagas
1 pound small zucchini
1 butternut squash or pumpkin
2 sweet red peppers, cored, seeded, & quartered
1 dried hot pepper, cored, seeded, soaked
in water but left whole (Mexican guajillo)
1 tablespoon butter or smen, optional
Fresh mint leaves for garnish

1    One day in advance, marinate the meat in a crushed mixture of garlic, spices and salt. Soak the chickpeas overnight in plenty of water to cover.

2.  The following day, drain the fresh chick peas, cover with fresh, cold water, and cook, covered, l hour. Drain, cool, and remove the skins by submerging the chick peas in a bowl of cold water and gently rubbing them between the fingers. The skins will rise to the top of the water. Discard the skins and set the peeled chick peas aside for step 5. (If using canned chick peas, peel them and set them aside for step 5.)

3.   Bring the spiced meat to room temperature. Meanwhile, place the onion, 2 tablespoons oil, ginger, paprika, saffron Corn Couscous with Lamb3water, turmeric and dried herbs in a 5 quart casserole set over medium heat. Cook, stirring from time to time, until the onion dissolves into a puree, about 10 minutes.

4. Add the meat and slowly brown on all sides. Meanwhile, stud the lemon with cloves and stuff with the fresh herbs; tie up with a piece of string. Add to the casserole with the tomato, and 8 cups water and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer, cover  and cook for 1 hour.

Corn Couscous with Lamb45.   Add the peeled chick peas to the pot, and cook  for 1 more hour, or until the meat is butter tender and the bones are easily removed and discarded.

6.   Meanwhile fasten a Clay Coyote stoneware colander or a metal couscous top over a tall pot of water and bring the water to the boil. Before boiling, place a rolled up strip of foil around the top of the pot to secure and seal the colander.

7.   In a wide bowl, toss the grits with 3 tablespoons argan oil and then work in 3/4 cup cold water. Ten minutes later Corn Couscous with Lamb2moisten with another 3/4 cup water.

8.  Add the corn grits to the colander, cover, and cook for 45 minutes. Meanwhile, prepare the vegetables: pare the carrots and turnips or rutabagas and cut them into 1-1/2 inch lengths.  Trim the zucchini ends, halve and cut into 1 ½ inch lengths. Peel and cut up the pumpkin.

9. Turn steamed cornmeal into a wide shallow  bowl; gradually moisten with 3 cups cold water. Use a long pronged whisk to break up clumps. Return to the colander and steam for another 45 minutes.  At the same time, add the turnips and carrots to the casserole and cook, uncovered, for 20 minutes. Add the pumpkin. zucchini and peppers, and continue cooking until all the vegetables are soft, about 25 minutes.  Correct the seasoning with salt and pepper to taste. Remove the casserole from the heat; pick out and discard the preserved lemon bundle.

Corn Couscous with Lamb610. Dump the couscous into the serving dish and moisten  with 2 cups of the broth and a little butter or smen, if using. Use a long wire whisk to smooth out the lumps. Spread out then form a huge well in the center. With a perforated spoon, transfer the meat and vegetables into the well. Top with sprigs of fresh mint. Serve the remaining broth on the side.

** Bob’s red mill  organic polenta corn grits

Variation: Although this version uses fresh marinated lamb, the original recipe is made with confit of lamb called khlii or 1 ½ cups fast track khlii.  Recipes for these will be in Paula’s new book.

How To Cook With Ceramic Flameware Stovetop Cookware

Cooking in clay pots results in better tasting food.  But traditionally, stoneware pots could only be used in the oven.  When Paula Wolfert started working on her book “Mediterranean Clay Pot Cooking” she was looking for a US Flameware Spanish Cazuela by Clay Coyote Potterypotter to make stoneware that would also go on a direct flame stovetop.  She put us in touch with Bill Sax who was extremely generous with his knowledge and experience with this type of ware.

We’ve worked well over 2 years now developing, perfecting and testing a stoneware based, ceramic stovetop cookware that will take a direct flame.  In doing this, we’ve learned a lot about how to best use this somewhat new type of skillets, pans, casseroles and specialty cookware.

It’s fairly well established, if not scientifically, that food tastes better when cooked in clay.  Actually, way back when,  the concept of cooking foods and combining ingredients, was essentially made possible by the discovery of clay as a material from which to make cookware.

Today there is a lot of cookware available made from lower fired earthenware based pottery.  Some of it is capable of  use on a stovetop.  Much of this is imported to the US from Mediterranean countries, Japan, Mexico and China.

What I’m talking about in this post is a relatively new (25 or so years) type of clay similar to stoneware, but formulated to withstand the thermal shock of use on a direct flame without any flame spreader or other protection.  So here we go:

Flameware_Saucepan_OatmealThe biggest single thing that makes flameware different is that it is an insulator compared to any other cooking utensils.  Glass is the  only thing close.  This insulating attribute is what separates it from other cookware and what requires some different handling and procedures.

WHEN HEAT IS PUT IN…It goes all the way through.  With a metal pan, you typically turn the flame up to get the pan hot, then turn it down for cooking.  The pan loses heat almost immediately.  With flameware, you go directly to the cooking temperature.  If you turn the flame high to start with, that heat will go “thru” the pot and probably burn the food.

TURN HEAT DOWN OR OFF EARLY…the heat capacity of ceramic pots means they hold heat for several minutes.  If you need to reduce heat, do so a couple of minutes early.  If you are turning the heat off, do so before the dish is done, or remove it from the pan.

HANDLES WON”T GET HOT…unless you put flame directly on them or put the pot in the oven.

NO NEED TO PRE-TREAT  or SEASON FLAMEWARE POTS…With most earthenware pots (especially unglazed)  pre-treatment is needed, either to prepare for cooking (typically soaking) or before cooking (seasoning).  A little oil for cooking is all that’s needed.

FLAMEWARE WORKS ON ALL TYPES OF STOVES…gas, conventional electric burner, glass top (both coil and halogen) and all ovens.  To use it on an induction stove, you will need a metal induction heat source.  You will NOT need a flame spreader or diffuser on any of these although you certainly can use one.

The reason for using a diffuser is that, being an insulator, the heat comes through the flameware in a more localized pattern and can, if the food isn’t stirred regularly, burn the dish.

CLEAN UP IS EASY…soak in water for a while and most food will scrub away.  It’s not quite non-stick, but it is easy clean.  If you burn something on, we’ve found the easiest clean-up is a spray with E-Z Off oven cleaner, let it sit a half hour and wipe clean.  You can use any green scrubby, Brillo pad or scouring pad.  Dishwasher cleaning is fine.

GO FROM STOVE TO OVEN TO TABLE…no need to dirty an extra pan to Alforno 3combine sauteed ingredients with sauces, vegetables and meats.  Do it all in one!  Saute first, add other ingredients, liquids and cover and cook on the stovetop (ala a tagine) or slip into the oven to finish cooking.

Once you get used to cooking with flameware, you’ll find yourself reaching for it more and more.