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Chicken in Red Wine Vinegar

 

 

 

Chicken in Red Wine Vinegar

ACTIVE TIME: 25 MIN

TOTAL TIME: 1 HR 5 MIN

SERVES: 4

For Paula Wolfert, this rustic Lyonnais dish is comfort food. Slow cooking transforms red wine vinegar, tomato, shallots, garlic and a touch of honey into a perfectly balanced sauce for chicken. This is the recipe we recommend to try after crafting your own vinegar using our Vinegar Crock.

INGREDIENTS

14 tablespoons red wine vinegar

1/2 cup low-sodium chicken broth

1 tablespoon honey

1 tablespoon tomato paste

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

8 large chicken thighs, trimmed

Salt and freshly ground pepper

4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

3 large shallots, thinly sliced

3/4 cup dry white wine

2 tablespoons crème fraîche

3 tablespoons chopped tarragon

 

DIRECTIONS

1. In a medium saucepan, bring the vinegar, broth, honey and tomato paste to a boil, stirring well. Simmer the vinegar sauce until reduced to 1/2 cup, about 8 minutes.

2. Heat the butter in a large, heavy skillet. Season the chicken thighs with salt and pepper and add half of them to the skillet, skin side down. Cook over moderate heat, turning once, until browned. Transfer to a plate. Repeat with the remaining thighs.

3. Add the garlic and shallots to the skillet and cook over low heat for 5 minutes. Add the wine; boil until reduced to 1/4 cup. Add the vinegar sauce and bring to a simmer.

4. Return the chicken to the skillet, skin side up. Cover and simmer over low heat until cooked through, about 20 minutes. Transfer the chicken to plates.

5. Add the crème fraîche to the skillet and boil for 3 minutes. Add the tarragon and season with salt and pepper. Pour the sauce over the chicken and serve.

WINE PAIRING RECOMMENDATION: Red-cherry rich 2004 Potel-Aviron Juliénas Vieilles Vignes.

Recipe by Paula Wolfert

From The Virtue of Homemade Vinegar

This recipe originally appeared in October, 2006. Food and Wine Magazine www.foodandwine.com

 

 

March is Tagine Month!

 

Sage Green Tagine

Sage Green Tagine

 

TAGINE, the name of both the dish and the pot it is cooked in, are traditionally done on the stovetop so the moisture condenses on the cool stoneware top and drops back into the flameware dish.  The lid on the tagine is designed  to encourage this condensation. The necessary moisture loss (to thicken the broth) occurs in the fit between the lid and base. The big advantage of the Clay Coyote flameware based tagine, over earthenware, is that you can do any high temperature pre-cooking like sauteeing  onions, garlic, browning meat, then lower the heat to cook the traditionally simmered tagine.
This piece can bake, broil, stew, simmer, saute, and serve.

We will be posting our favorite tagine recipes this month, as well as experimenting with new uses for the dish. I just recieved a tagine for my birthday. If you have been considering adding a tagine to your collection, March is the time to do it. We have a variety to chose from in our gallery. We also have a nice selection in our studio waiting to be glazed.

This is from Paula Wolfert’s Mediterranean Clay Pot Cooking book. Betsy and Tom made this for our summer dinner party. It was amazing!

 

Moroccan Tagine next to couscous

Moroccan Tagine and steamed couscous

Moroccan Lamb Tagine with

Winter Squash and Toasted Pine Nuts

 

2 pounds thick bone in lamb shoulder arm chops

2 1/2 to 3 pounds butternut squash

Coarse salt

1/8 teaspoon saffron threads

1 large onion, grated, plus 2 medium onions, sliced

Salt and freshly ground pepper

2 teaspoons La Kama

2 teaspoons smen (optional)

Pinch ground cinnamon

Pinch ground ginger

1 Tablespoon lavender or orange flower honey

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 tablespoons pine nuts, toasted

1.  Trim any excess fat from the lamb. Cut the chops into 1 1/2 inch chunks with the bones.

2.  Peel the squash and scrape out the seeds and membrane. Shred the squash. Sprinkle liberally with coarse salt and drain in a colander for about 1 hour. At the same time, soak the saffron in 1/3 cup warm water.

Step 3

Step 3

3. Place the lamb, grated onion, saffron, and its water, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 1/2 teaspoons of La Kama, and the smen in the tagine. Stir to mix well. Cover and cook on low heat for 1 1/2 hours.

4. Stir the sliced onions and continue to cook, covered, for 1 hour longer. Pick out the pieces of lamb and let stand until cool enough to handle. Cut out and discard the bones. Skim off the cooking liquid in the tagine. Season the meat with salt and pepper and return to the tagine.

 

5.  Rinse the grated squash under cold running water and squeeze in your hands over a bowl to catch the juices. Measure out and reserve 2 tablespoons of the juice; discard the remainder. Place the grated squash in a 10 inch nonstick skillet. Add the cinnamon, ginger, honey, remaining La Kama, 2 tablespoons of the butter, and the reserved 2 tablespoons of squash liquid. Slowly fry until the squash is thickened to a jam like consistency and colored a golden carmel, about 15 minutes.

6. Preheat oven to 300F. Ladel 1/2 the sauce from the tagine over the squash and stir to combine. Spread the squash and stir to combine. Spread the squash evenly over the lamb. Dot with the remaining 1 tablespoon butter and place tagine in the top third of the oven. Raise heat to 425F and bake, uncovered, until the squash is lightly glazed, about 30 minutes. Remove from oven, be sure to set the tagine down on a wooded surface. Serve the tagine hot or warm, with the pine nuts scattered on top.

Do you have a delicious tagine recipe to share? We will be selecting one recipe to feature here on our blog. Send in your ideas, and you could be the March feature.

Coming soon…  Israeli  Couscous and lentil stuffed peppers

How To Cook With Ceramic Flameware Stovetop Cookware

Cooking in clay pots results in better tasting food.  But traditionally, stoneware pots could only be used in the oven.  When Paula Wolfert started working on her book “Mediterranean Clay Pot Cooking” she was looking for a US Flameware Spanish Cazuela by Clay Coyote Potterypotter to make stoneware that would also go on a direct flame stovetop.  She put us in touch with Bill Sax who was extremely generous with his knowledge and experience with this type of ware.

We’ve worked well over 2 years now developing, perfecting and testing a stoneware based, ceramic stovetop cookware that will take a direct flame.  In doing this, we’ve learned a lot about how to best use this somewhat new type of skillets, pans, casseroles and specialty cookware.

It’s fairly well established, if not scientifically, that food tastes better when cooked in clay.  Actually, way back when,  the concept of cooking foods and combining ingredients, was essentially made possible by the discovery of clay as a material from which to make cookware.

Today there is a lot of cookware available made from lower fired earthenware based pottery.  Some of it is capable of  use on a stovetop.  Much of this is imported to the US from Mediterranean countries, Japan, Mexico and China.

What I’m talking about in this post is a relatively new (25 or so years) type of clay similar to stoneware, but formulated to withstand the thermal shock of use on a direct flame without any flame spreader or other protection.  So here we go:

Flameware_Saucepan_OatmealThe biggest single thing that makes flameware different is that it is an insulator compared to any other cooking utensils.  Glass is the  only thing close.  This insulating attribute is what separates it from other cookware and what requires some different handling and procedures.

WHEN HEAT IS PUT IN…It goes all the way through.  With a metal pan, you typically turn the flame up to get the pan hot, then turn it down for cooking.  The pan loses heat almost immediately.  With flameware, you go directly to the cooking temperature.  If you turn the flame high to start with, that heat will go “thru” the pot and probably burn the food.

TURN HEAT DOWN OR OFF EARLY…the heat capacity of ceramic pots means they hold heat for several minutes.  If you need to reduce heat, do so a couple of minutes early.  If you are turning the heat off, do so before the dish is done, or remove it from the pan.

HANDLES WON”T GET HOT…unless you put flame directly on them or put the pot in the oven.

NO NEED TO PRE-TREAT  or SEASON FLAMEWARE POTS…With most earthenware pots (especially unglazed)  pre-treatment is needed, either to prepare for cooking (typically soaking) or before cooking (seasoning).  A little oil for cooking is all that’s needed.

FLAMEWARE WORKS ON ALL TYPES OF STOVES…gas, conventional electric burner, glass top (both coil and halogen) and all ovens.  To use it on an induction stove, you will need a metal induction heat source.  You will NOT need a flame spreader or diffuser on any of these although you certainly can use one.

The reason for using a diffuser is that, being an insulator, the heat comes through the flameware in a more localized pattern and can, if the food isn’t stirred regularly, burn the dish.

CLEAN UP IS EASY…soak in water for a while and most food will scrub away.  It’s not quite non-stick, but it is easy clean.  If you burn something on, we’ve found the easiest clean-up is a spray with E-Z Off oven cleaner, let it sit a half hour and wipe clean.  You can use any green scrubby, Brillo pad or scouring pad.  Dishwasher cleaning is fine.

GO FROM STOVE TO OVEN TO TABLE…no need to dirty an extra pan to Alforno 3combine sauteed ingredients with sauces, vegetables and meats.  Do it all in one!  Saute first, add other ingredients, liquids and cover and cook on the stovetop (ala a tagine) or slip into the oven to finish cooking.

Once you get used to cooking with flameware, you’ll find yourself reaching for it more and more.

A Tale of Two Pots – Modern Clay Pot Cooking

In her fabulous new book “Mediterranean Clay Pot Cooking“, Paula Wolfert Book and Skillet provides some excellent guidance on the use of clay pots for cooking of both the wonderful Mediterranean recipes she provides, and the ability to adapt use of these pots to modern cooking.

First and foremost, there are basically two types of clay pots used, earthenware based and stoneware based, determined by the clay bodies from which they’re made.

The more traditional type of pot is from clays dug in a relatively few areas of the world.  These are considered earthenware based clays as they are generally fired to about 1950 degF (although in many cases much lower), but contain naturally combined mica and/or other ingredients which gives them the strength to withstand being heated over a gentle direct flame.  The clay remains slightly or very porous and oftentimes is unglazed.  If the interior is glazed, it is to make the pot waterproof from the inside.  Always be gentle with these pots as they were originally intended for use over charcoal fires.  A flame diffuser is generally advised on direct flames.

Flameware Spanish Cazuela by Clay Coyote Pottery

Clay Coyote Flameware Skillet

The second type of  pottery which will withstand direct heat is more recently developed and is called Flameware”. It is a combination of clays, silica, and a lithium ore (spodumene is usually used).  It is high-fired (at least 2387 degF) and often higher.  At these temperatures, the lithium undergoes a one-way expansion which later prevents the pot from undergoing the normal, silica-based expansion and contraction when a pot is heated and cooled.

Potters don’t use these flameware clay bodies for general stoneware work, since the spodumene dramatically affects the glaze color.  Also, because the clay doesn’t have normal expansion, regular stoneware glazes can’t be used.  These clay bodies are also more difficult to work with, becoming very soft in firing and requiring separate steps to ensure there aren’t hidden cracks.  Because of all this, very few individual potters are willing to go through the development and testing of flameware pots.  There are a few manufacturers such as Nigella Lawson and Emile Henri who have also done this successfully.

Regular stoneware pottery such as bowls and baking dishes will take oven heating because the heat surrounds the whole pot, causing it to expand all at one time.  These stoneware pots will not take direct flame since that flame is heating only part of the pot, which tries to expand against the unheated part.  Only flameware will take the direct stovetop heat.

Cazuela from Stove to oven

Clay Coyote Cazuela

In Flameware ceramic stovetop pots, the clay doesn’t expand nearly as much as stoneware, so it will take direct flame, electric or glasstop stove heat.  These pots are especially useful since they can go from stovetop to oven to table with no risk of damage.

I have seen online posts showing flameware melting aluminum, being quenched from high temps.  These are all things any true flameware pot will do with ease.

Be sure any flameware pot you buy is fully guaranteed.  If you have any questions, please add them as a comment and I’ll tell you what we know.  Coming posts will talk about using these new flameware ceramic stovetop pots.

The question of using a flame spreader or diffuser comes up continually.  First, since ceramic of any kind is an insulator, heat comes through where it’s applied, it doesn’t mover through the pot.  Ceramic stovetops spread it the best, then gas and finally electric, where there is little spreading.  So, if you keep the food moving, you won’t need a spreader.  For gentle simmering over any heat source (where clay pots really shine) you probably won’t need one, but it doesn’t hurt to have one.  A diffuser is a good idea over electric stovetops.

FLAMEWARE!

Here it comes, new CERAMIC FLAMEWARE from Clay Coyote Pottery. It’s ceramic cookware for stovetop cooking! We’ve spent nearly 2 years working on this to get it right…

It started a couple of years ago as Paula Wolfert was looking for a source for pots to emulate some of the indigenous cookware traditionally used over open fires and charcoal. trouble is, our modern stoves have much higher heat.
A few potters have made stoneware flameware over the years, but conventional wisdom was that it was risky and devilishly difficult.
Well, we can attest that it’s difficult, but after cooking with a number of pieces over the last 6 months, and recruiting a number of our friends to do the same, it’s ready for you.
The first piece is this skillet…

about 10 inches in diameter and 2 inches deep. Fry, saute, bake, roast…do just about anything. Good in the microwave, cleanup easily in the sink or dishwasher. Tom’s used it for eggs almost every morning for 5 months and finds it has much less of a tendency to burn food, and the eggs are more tender that in metal cookware.

Betsy’s been doing the same with oatmeal every morning in a small saucepan and with the same result.

Paula’s been doing a lot of work on cooking in clay, as she has for years, and has decided that it’s the way to go. “These are absolutely fabulous” she says.

Next was a cazuela, about 11 inches in diameter that Paula needed for gratins and some other dishes started on the stovetop, and finished in the oven. This one’s got a smaller ‘trumpet’ handle with a small ‘hot-pad tab’ on the other side for easy handling in and out of the oven. Betsy just used one to make an apple tarte tatin.

We’ve done a couple of saucepans but are just finalizing sizes and shapes. Finally, we did a 3 qt. casserole for Paula, and she found it made the best daube ever and that it cooked simmered dishes better on the stovetop than any crockpot does.

casserole photo by: ed anderson photography 1105 thompson lane petaluma, california 94952 707 981 7957 office http://www.edandersonphoto.com

We aren’t sure why these ceramic pots cook so well (and clean up even better). After a lot of testing, we think that it’s because the ceramic is an insulator, heat comes through more gently, so food has much less tendency to burn, even slightly. The secret, though, is to slow down, put the heat where you’ll need it eventually, and then wait for the pot to warm up. If you punch in high heat initially, the heat keeps coming through and can overcook the food. You also have to learn to either turn the heat down or off earlier, or remove the food as soon as it’s done. But these pots go from stove to table so beautifully that the turn down early is the way to go.

Right now glazes are limited to the one blue-gray shown. We’ll have more later, but never the same as our regular glazes. The clay that makes these pots possible limits the glaze possibilities.
As we get them ready, we’ll post them on the website for sale.