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How To Cook With Ceramic Flameware Stovetop Cookware

Cooking in clay pots results in better tasting food.  But traditionally, stoneware pots could only be used in the oven.  When Paula Wolfert started working on her book “Mediterranean Clay Pot Cooking” she was looking for a US Flameware Spanish Cazuela by Clay Coyote Potterypotter to make stoneware that would also go on a direct flame stovetop.  She put us in touch with Bill Sax who was extremely generous with his knowledge and experience with this type of ware.

We’ve worked well over 2 years now developing, perfecting and testing a stoneware based, ceramic stovetop cookware that will take a direct flame.  In doing this, we’ve learned a lot about how to best use this somewhat new type of skillets, pans, casseroles and specialty cookware.

It’s fairly well established, if not scientifically, that food tastes better when cooked in clay.  Actually, way back when,  the concept of cooking foods and combining ingredients, was essentially made possible by the discovery of clay as a material from which to make cookware.

Today there is a lot of cookware available made from lower fired earthenware based pottery.  Some of it is capable of  use on a stovetop.  Much of this is imported to the US from Mediterranean countries, Japan, Mexico and China.

What I’m talking about in this post is a relatively new (25 or so years) type of clay similar to stoneware, but formulated to withstand the thermal shock of use on a direct flame without any flame spreader or other protection.  So here we go:

Flameware_Saucepan_OatmealThe biggest single thing that makes flameware different is that it is an insulator compared to any other cooking utensils.  Glass is the  only thing close.  This insulating attribute is what separates it from other cookware and what requires some different handling and procedures.

WHEN HEAT IS PUT IN…It goes all the way through.  With a metal pan, you typically turn the flame up to get the pan hot, then turn it down for cooking.  The pan loses heat almost immediately.  With flameware, you go directly to the cooking temperature.  If you turn the flame high to start with, that heat will go “thru” the pot and probably burn the food.

TURN HEAT DOWN OR OFF EARLY…the heat capacity of ceramic pots means they hold heat for several minutes.  If you need to reduce heat, do so a couple of minutes early.  If you are turning the heat off, do so before the dish is done, or remove it from the pan.

HANDLES WON”T GET HOT…unless you put flame directly on them or put the pot in the oven.

NO NEED TO PRE-TREAT  or SEASON FLAMEWARE POTS…With most earthenware pots (especially unglazed)  pre-treatment is needed, either to prepare for cooking (typically soaking) or before cooking (seasoning).  A little oil for cooking is all that’s needed.

FLAMEWARE WORKS ON ALL TYPES OF STOVES…gas, conventional electric burner, glass top (both coil and halogen) and all ovens.  To use it on an induction stove, you will need a metal induction heat source.  You will NOT need a flame spreader or diffuser on any of these although you certainly can use one.

The reason for using a diffuser is that, being an insulator, the heat comes through the flameware in a more localized pattern and can, if the food isn’t stirred regularly, burn the dish.

CLEAN UP IS EASY…soak in water for a while and most food will scrub away.  It’s not quite non-stick, but it is easy clean.  If you burn something on, we’ve found the easiest clean-up is a spray with E-Z Off oven cleaner, let it sit a half hour and wipe clean.  You can use any green scrubby, Brillo pad or scouring pad.  Dishwasher cleaning is fine.

GO FROM STOVE TO OVEN TO TABLE…no need to dirty an extra pan to Alforno 3combine sauteed ingredients with sauces, vegetables and meats.  Do it all in one!  Saute first, add other ingredients, liquids and cover and cook on the stovetop (ala a tagine) or slip into the oven to finish cooking.

Once you get used to cooking with flameware, you’ll find yourself reaching for it more and more.

The Annual Cassoulet Bash

In Minnesota, winters can be, well, uncomfortable.  Especially this year!   Cassoulet1So we really NEED, no, DESERVE, comfort food.  For those who have read elsewhere on this blog, we get together with 3 other couples each year in deep winter (mid-Jan to Mid-Feb) and comfort ourselves with cassoulet.  Paula Wolfert’s cassoulet.  As included in her book “Cooking of SW France”.   Candice brought the wine and salad.  Shirley the bread and dessert.  Linda did the hors d’ouevres.  Betsy did the cassoulet.  The guys provided the glitter and glitz and talked smart.  Oh…if you’ve got to “do” winter…this is the way to do it!

Cassoulet2Linda did fantastic hors d’ouvres,

Are you ready?

Tom Smith, Candice Woods and Jenna

(our J-Term intern) are ready!

Jim does the honors (below).

Cassoulet5

No-Knead Bread (with Sourdough Option)

Adapted from Jim Lahey, Sullivan Street Bakery

Originally published Nov. 8th, 2006 New York Times

sourdough cutThis one is really easy, and the bread is as close to artisan you can get without going to all the trouble. A sourdough version follows.

There are 3 books we recommend, Lahey’s“My Bread”,  Zoe Francois’ “Artisan Bread in 5 Minutes a Day” , and Nancy Baggett’s “Kneadlessly SImple”.

No-Knead Bread
Yields one 1 1/2 pound loaf

3 cups all-purpose or bread flour, more for dusting
¼ teaspoon instant yeast
1¼ teaspoons salt (may take a hair more)
Cornmeal or wheat bran as needed.  We, of course, recommend the Clay Coyote No-Knead Bread Bowl (shown in the pictures here) for mixing and baking.   But, if you have to, any bowl will do.  Interesting, a tagine makes a perfect baker also.

1. In a large bowl combine flour, yeast and salt. Add 1 5/8 cups water, and stir until blended; dough will be shaggy and sticky.
Cover bowl with plastic wrap. Let dough rest at least 12 hours, preferably about 18, at warm room temperature, about 70 degrees. If your thermostat cuts back at night, place on stovetop, set obven to minimal temp (probably 150-170) and place a dish towel over the covered bowl.

2. Dough is ready when its surface is dotted with bubbles.sourdough strip
Lightly flour a work surface and place dough on it; sprinkle it with a little more flour and fold it over on itself once or twice. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and let rest about 15 minutes.

3. Using just enough flour to keep dough from sticking to work surface or to your fingers, gently and quickly shape dough into a ball.
Generously coat a cotton towel (not terry cloth) with flour, wheat bran or cornmeal; put dough seam side down on towel and dust with more flour, bran or cornmeal.
Cover with another cotton towel and let rise for about 2 hours. When it is ready, dough will be more than double in size and will not readily spring back when poked with a finger.
(Note, in the photos, I used a bread board, covered with the bowl in which the initial raising took place, and put the bowl over the dough upside down. Saves messing up a towel. If the bowl is warm, it will speed the raising).
4. At least a half-hour before dough is ready, heat oven to 450 degrees. Put your Clay Coyote No-Knead Bread bowl (or other bowl if you have to) with lid in oven as it heats. When dough is ready, use hot pads to carefully remove pot from oven. Slide your hand under towel and turn dough over into the pot, seam side up; it may look like a mess, but that is O.K. Shake pan once or twice if dough is unevenly distributed; it will straighten out as it bakes.
Cover with lid and bake 30 minutes, then remove lid and bake another 15 to 30 minutes, until loaf is beautifully browned. Cool on a rack.

Sourdough FinishedSOURDOUGH OPTION
If you’ve got a starter, instead of yeast, put a 1/2 cup of starter in initial batter. Then follow the rest of the directions. Be sure to give it the full 18 hours or more. You’ll get a tangy sourdough loaf.

Pecan Toffee Bars

Shirley made these for part of dessert on our cassoulet night last Sunday.  They were a decoration for her Chocolate Amaretto cheesecake.  Oh My Goodness!

Line 9×13 with graham crackers  Pecan_Toffee_Bar.jpg

Melt 1 c butter
1 c brown sugar
1 c chopped pecans

Bring to boil for 3 mins. stirring constantly

Pour over graham crackers and bake at 350 for 9 min.

But 6 Hershey Bars on top and let melt, spread. Cool and cut.

I got this recipe from Terry Erickson, Hutchinson. She was so nice to share her recipe with me (twice, as misplaced it) She told me it is a simple, quick and yummy recipe. Terry’s seemed much better than mine, but just means I need to keep making them until I get it right. Thanks Terry

Straw and Hay Alforno

This recipe is from Paula Wolfert’s Mediterranean Clay Pot Cooking book- It has layers of flavor, subtle texture, and the Alforno 3smell makes my stomach growl!!! This was my first attempt at one of her recipes, and I think it turned out great! She makes recipes easy to follow. (I shortened the explanations below) (Contributed by Valerie Spicer)

Ingredients:
3 baby artichokes
2 oz. fresh wild mushrooms, preferably trumpet
2 T Extra Virgin Olive Oil
salt & freshly ground pepper
2 T finely chopped white onion
2 garlic cloves mashed
2 oz. flavorful cooked ham, cut into 1/2″ dice
3/4 c heavy cream
3/4 milk
1/8 t freshly grated nutmeg
1/3 c plus 2 T freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
4oz dried egg noodles… 1/2 spinach 1/ plain

I used my Clay Coyote Cazuela for this recipe.
I preheated the oven to 400 degrees first.

1. Wash artichokes, trim stems, remove tough outer leaves. Boil in salted water until tender (10 minutes) Immediately drain, cool, and press out excess moisture. Wrap in paper towels and set aside.

2. Coat the bottom of your cazuela with 1 Tbsp  Olive Oil and set it over low heat. When oil is warm, add the mushrooms. Cover and let steam 3-4 minutes. Uncover, raise to med. heat and saute until they have expressed all their moisture and begin to caramelize. Transfer them to a side dish, and set cazuela aside.

3. Slice artichokes lengthwise and lightly salt and pepper

4. Add last Tbsp Olive Oil to cazuela and set over med. heat. Add onion and cook until caramelized (10 min.) Add garlic, ham, artichokes, and mushrooms. Cook 3-5 more minutes or until garlic is toasted.

Alforno 15. In small saucepan, heat the cream and milk until hot. Season with nutmeg salt and pepper. Pour the seasoned milk and cream into the cazuela and bring to a boil. Turn off the heat and stir in 1/3 c cheese, let stand.

6. Cook pasta until tender in a large pot with salted water. Use one of Clay Coyote’s colanders to drain the pasta. Next add noodles to the cazeula, stir to coat noodles with sauce. Scatter the rest of the cheese on top.

7. Bake on top third of the oven 15-20 min. or until cheese is golden brown.

Alforno 2